Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best pneumatic 3 jaw chuck

I am new to lathes. I purchased a PMGT that should be here in early March. It's a single phase that will be used for gunsmithing. I've been using a mill for a year now and am still new to machining but learning.

When I purchased the lathe I got the Precision Matthews brand high precision 4 jaw lathe chuck that will ship with it. In talking with the other gunsmiths who are guiding me I know that I need a 3 jaw chuck and a collet chuck. I'm trying to figure out the best bang for my buck on these items. I'm not incapable of spending some money (I'm not on a tight "Chinese only" type budget) but I don't want to burn money needlessly. I know the 3 jaw will get used the most along with the collet chuck for what I need to do with them.

I've looked at Buck adjust-tru 3 jaw chucks and lordy are they expensive. The 8" 3 jaw with a D1-4 back plate is around $-$ new. I thought about trying to find a used one on ebay with no back plate and combining that with a new D1-4 back plate but it's hard for me to tell if the used condition is satisfactory or not. I've seen them on ebay for anywhere from $200 to $700. The $200 ones look rough. The $600-$700 look much better but I'm not %100 sure they are what they say they are as I'm unfamiliar with the markings on the older buck chucks.

As far as collet chucks go I'm all ears. Don't know much about them. I've seen the Chinese ones that are around $150 to a bison brand that are around $460 with no back plate. Any advise would be appreciated.

Thank you. For a goode middle ground, take a look at Bison chucks, for a little cheaper Gator.

Lots of places sell Bison , so you need to shop around as prices can be all over the place.

Plain back (model # is actually 7-800-)

Bison 3-Jaw Self-Centering Scroll Chuck, Plain Back #, 8" Diameter - 7-800-

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.

• Integrated D1-4 mount
  

  Bison 3-Jaw Lathe Chuck Self Centering "D-1" Camlock Mount, 8" Diameter D1-4 - 803-

  Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
  Plain back set true
  

  Bison 3-Jaw 2Pc. Set-Tru Scroll Chuck Hard Reversible Jaw 8" Dia. - 7-866-

  Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
  If you want to splurge, you could get a set true 6 jaw. This is why you need to shop around, the same chuck but a $400 price difference.
  

  Bison 6-Jaw 2Pc. Set-Tru Scroll Chuck Hard Reversible Jaw 8" Dia. - 7-868-

  Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
  
  I wouldn't get a collet chuck personally. I'd go with the collet closer you can get directly from Quality Machine Tools.
  
  
• A chuck is less rigid as it projects out from the spindle face more.
• A chuck is usually less accurate as its a more complicated piece of technology.
• A chuck is more fiddly/time consuming to use than a lever closer.
  

The only potential benefit of a collet chuck in my opinion is if you get a set true one. They are more expensive, still less rigid and fiddly, but can make up for poor quality collets (within reason.)

I am new to lathes. I purchased a PMGT that should be here in early March. It's a single phase that will be used for gunsmithing. I've been using a mill for a year now and am still new to machining but learning.

When I purchased the lathe I got the Precision Matthews brand high precision 4 jaw lathe chuck that will ship with it. In talking with the other gunsmiths who are guiding me I know that I need a 3 jaw chuck and a collet chuck. I'm trying to figure out the best bang for my buck on these items. I'm not incapable of spending some money (I'm not on a tight "Chinese only" type budget) but I don't want to burn money needlessly. I know the 3 jaw will get used the most along with the collet chuck for what I need to do with them.

I've looked at Buck adjust-tru 3 jaw chucks and lordy are they expensive. The 8" 3 jaw with a D1-4 back plate is around $-$ new. I thought about trying to find a used one on ebay with no back plate and combining that with a new D1-4 back plate but it's hard for me to tell if the used condition is satisfactory or not. I've seen them on ebay for anywhere from $200 to $700. The $200 ones look rough. The $600-$700 look much better but I'm not %100 sure they are what they say they are as I'm unfamiliar with the markings on the older buck chucks.

As far as collet chucks go I'm all ears. Don't know much about them. I've seen the Chinese ones that are around $150 to a bison brand that are around $460 with no back plate. Any advise would be appreciated.

Thank you.

I purchased the 8" Gator 6 jaw set true chuck for my PM and I'm very satisfied with the chuck.

http://gatorchucksonline.com/Scroll...pb-series-6-jaw-153-semi-steel/1-153-.htm
This chuck gets used for 99% of my work.

Instead of buying a separate collet chuck I went with an ER32 collet holder that I chuck up in the 6 jaw.
https://www.maritool.com/Tool-Holde...STRAIGHT-SHANK-COLLET-CHUCK/product_info.html
This gives me the equivalent of a set true collet chuck for a fraction of the cost plus no need to switch out chucks. Some will say this is a less rigid setup and that is true but considering the small size stock you put into a collet it doesn't matter much. If you are doing a lot of repetitive small part work in a collet this setup will be slow compared to a true collet chuck but I'm a hobbiest so not really a problem for me. I would consider trolling ebay for a "New-Open Box" chuck with the specs you consider necessary. I recently bought a Pratt-Burnerd - Made in England 6" 4-jaw independent scroll chuck in that category and paid a fraction of the cost for a brand new one. The chuck came in the original box with original styrofoam packaging and cosmolene and had clearly never been used on a lathe. It was exactly what I was looking for except for the backing plate - I modified one I had to fit my lathe. The only downside was it did not have the original chuck key. So I made two - a nice exercise anyway.

I did a quick search on ebay and found this - might not be at all what you're looking for but just an illustration that there's stuff out there:

Display Model Bison Poland 8" 3-Jaw Scroll Lathe Chuck. 2pc Jaws. A5 A1-5 Mount. | eBay

Display Bison Poland 8" 3-Jaw Scroll Lathe Chuck. 2pc Jaws. A5 A1-5 Mount. $ Premium European quality. Box May be different than the one shown '3-Jaw Direct Mounting Lathe Chucks 'American Standard . 2-Pc. Jaws Please See additional Pictures Below the Description.
That chuck lists for over $1,300 on MSC's website:

Regards,
Terry P

I would consider trolling ebay for a "New-Open Box" chuck with the specs you consider necessary. I recently bought a Pratt-Burnerd - Made in England 6" 4-jaw independent scroll chuck in that category and paid a fraction of the cost for a brand new one. The chuck came in the original box with original styrofoam packaging and cosmolene and had clearly never been used on a lathe. It was exactly what I was looking for except for the backing plate - I modified one I had to fit my lathe. The only downside was it did not have the original chuck key. So I made two - a nice exercise anyway.

I did a quick search on ebay and found this - might not be at all what you're looking for but just an illustration that there's stuff out there:

Display Model Bison Poland 8" 3-Jaw Scroll Lathe Chuck. 2pc Jaws. A5 A1-5 Mount. | eBay

Display Bison Poland 8" 3-Jaw Scroll Lathe Chuck. 2pc Jaws. A5 A1-5 Mount. $ Premium European quality. Box May be different than the one shown '3-Jaw Direct Mounting Lathe Chucks 'American Standard . 2-Pc. Jaws Please See additional Pictures Below the Description.
That chuck lists for over $1,300 on MSC's website:

Regards,
Terry

P.S.: It's also been my experience that vendors with "New - Open Box" merchandise will negotiate - sometimes, substantially.

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• Jul 29,

• #1

I have a Hurricane 125 chuck and I am looking to add another set of jaws (they are on sale now) to hold smaller items. I see they have pin, spigot and step jaws to hold smaller items. I am a new turner and will most likely need them for handles, finials, spindles, etc - no interest in turning pens.

Any thoughts on what might be the most versatile?

Thanks!

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• Jul 29,

• #2

There really are no one set of jaws that are better or worse than the others, they all have their place depending on the shape and size of the wood billet.
Whatever makes the task easier in making your items on the lathe will dictate the jaws you purchase.

hockenbery

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• Jul 29,

• #3

For ornament finials I use the ONEWAY smooth spigot jaws.
They grip 3/8 to 1 inch.
Tenons I use most are 1/2' and 3/4' these jaws have worked well for me.

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• Jul 30,

• #4

For finials I like the pin jaws. I have a set on a Record chuck. I tried the Nova spigot jaws, but prefer the pin jaws. I grip the wood in the square form.

Odie

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• Jul 30,

• #5

When I first bought my second Stronghold chuck, I purchased all the jaws that were available at the time. I'll never regret that decision, because they all get some use at some time, or another. However, the #2 jaws get the most use, by far......followed by the #3 jaws. I now have four Stronghold chucks, and they have #2, #3, Jumbo jaws, and mega jumbo jaws permanently mounted. When I need one of the other sets, I normally use the chuck with the #3 jaws to change out to what's currently needed.

I'm not suggesting anyone else follow my lead......but, this has been a very useful combination of chucks and jaws for me.......'

-----odie-----

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• Jul 31,

• #6

When I first bought my second Stronghold chuck, I purchased all the jaws that were available at the time. I'll never regret that decision, because they all get some use at some time, or another. However, the #2 jaws get the most use, by far......followed by the #3 jaws. I now have four Stronghold chucks, and they have #2, #3, Jumbo jaws, and mega jumbo jaws permanently mounted. When I need one of the other sets, I normally use the chuck with the #3 jaws to change out to what's currently needed.

I'm not suggesting anyone else follow my lead......but, this has been a very useful combination of chucks and jaws for me.......'

-----odie-----

Dang, Odie, I'm needing to play catch-up again. I only have two Stronghold chucks. '

Emiliano Achaval

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• Jul 31,

• #7

Dang, Odie, I'm needing to play catch-up again. I only have two Stronghold chucks. '

Odie has a good point. My most common jaws are always mounted on a chuck. That's why I have several chucks... They are always available. I do not think a weekend warrior needs 4 or 5 chucks, keep the chuck clean and the screws well-oiled when you change the jaws. It's a good idea to order some extra screws when you order jaws. You can not find them at Lowe's or Home Depot. I forgot the name of the jaws that I love to use when I make boxes, they work great for lots of other small jobs, including finials. I start my finials with the blank mostly inside the jaws and chuck, bringing it out as needed. I'll try to take a picture tomorrow.

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• Jul 31,

• #8

Odie has a good point. keep the chuck clean and the screws well-oiled when you change the jaws. It's a good idea to order some extra screws when you order jaws. .

Ok now that is something I have never seen as a suggestion. Never had a problem with my Novas and they mostly keep the same jaws also. Where does the oil screws come from?

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• Jul 31,

• #9

Ok now that is something I have never seen as a suggestion. Never had a problem with my Novas and they mostly keep the same jaws also. Where does the oil screws come from?

I have read several posts over the years from panicked owners of Oneway chucks who thought that the screws were horribly rusted right out of the box. They were assured that everything is OK and for those who don't know, copper filled grease is used as an anti-seize lubricant for for high load screw fasteners ... and it bears an uncanny resemblance to rust. So what's high load about the jaw screws you might ask? I'm sure everybody has noticed the "snap" when you loosen the jaw screws ... it's because the angle of the screw head and the angle of the hole are purposely made slightly different so that the screw "locks" when tightened. The purpose of having the screw lock is so that it won't vibrate loose. If there were no anti-seize lubricant it might be difficult to remove the screw. My Vicmarc chucks use a different anti-seize lubricant, but I think that copper grease is the best.

Everybody ought to have a small bottle of copper grease in their tool chest. I think that it took me about forty years to use up one small bottle so I need to get another one. But, if not that then at least some other grease. I would guess that a light oil like WD-40 is better than nothing, but a little too light to prevent wear.

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• Jul 31,

• #10

Some people are not mechanically inclined or have big hands which can lead to dropping screws on the floors when changing chuck jaws. If you don't like crawling around on the floor looking for a dropped screw it is well worth the investment to have several chucks to work with in the shop. For the rookies out there make sure you clean off your work bench and put your chuck in a shallow box or tray to catch the screws as you remove the jaws from your chuck, this is usually a good time to use compressed air to blow wood dust from the chuck surface and internals, also a good practice to clean the threads on the chuck to reduce gumming up the spindle threads on the lathe.

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• Jul 31,

• #11

I have a Hurricane 125 chuck and I am looking to add another set of jaws (they are on sale now) to hold smaller items. I see they have pin, spigot and step jaws to hold smaller items. I am a new turner and will most likely need them for handles, finials, spindles, etc - no interest in turning pens.

Any thoughts on what might be the most versatile?

Thanks!

The pin jaws appear to be a bit more versatile than the spigot jaw, if I read their literature correctly. The pin jaws will close to 3/8" diameter (you can hold a 3/8 diameter tenon; the spigot needs a 1/2 diameter tenon).

The step jaw might even be better for finials. If you make small finials, where your finial tenon is 1/4" diameter, it looks like the step jaws will handle those.

Best,

Hy

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• Jul 31,

• #12

Some people are not mechanically inclined or have big hands which can lead to dropping screws on the floors when changing chuck jaws. If you don't like crawling around on the floor looking for a dropped screw it is well worth the investment to have several chucks to work with in the shop. For the rookies out there make sure you clean off your work bench and put your chuck in a shallow box or tray to catch the screws as you remove the jaws from your chuck, this is usually a good time to use compressed air to blow wood dust from the chuck surface and internals, also a good practice to clean the threads on the chuck to reduce gumming up the spindle threads on the lathe.

I have several magnetic-base bowls (from Harbor Freight tools). I keep my most-frequently-used jaws in the bowl. When I remove the screw, I just drop it in the bowl, and the magnet grabs the screw. I also keep my faceplate screws in a similar bowl.

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• Aug 1,

• #14

Not having to deal with the jaw screws is one of the reasons I like the Axminister chucks. I buy the jaws and extra jaw slides. I just crank one set out and another set in. Not as quick as an Eastywood chuck, but much faster and easier than having to remove the screws.

Emiliano Achaval

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• Aug 2,

• #15

Ok now that is something I have never seen as a suggestion. Never had a problem with my Novas and they mostly keep the same jaws also. Where does the oil screws come from?

I meant clean and oil the screws when you change jaws. Not too long ago Woodworkers Emporium was out of stock of the Vicmarc screws for the back of the chucks. I'm guessing I'm not the only one that has stripped several screw heads in the last decades.. .

Odie

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• Aug 3,

• #16

I meant clean and oil the screws when you change jaws. Not too long ago Woodworkers Emporium was out of stock of the Vicmarc screws for the back of the chucks. I'm guessing I'm not the only one that has stripped several screw heads in the last decades.. .

Emiliano......Don't know what you are using, but I've found the "T" handled hex wrenches to work the best......but, if it's really stubborn, an impact driver will loosen up a stuck screw......well, prior to the point where the head is rounded over! '

-----odie-----

Here is one similar to mine:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-.html
It's cheap, and you use a hammer to break loose a stuck screw. It's saved my butt a few times! Last edited: Aug 3,

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• Aug 3,

• #17

Hello Turners, while on the subject of chucks.....what do you use to clean your chuck(s) with to get all the residue off from all the oils, sealers and other finishes that we use? I don't won't to use anything that will harm the gears....'. Very interesting information on this thread.

Bill Boehme

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• Aug 3,

• #18

Hello Turners, while on the subject of chucks.....what do you use to clean your chuck(s) with to get all the residue off from all the oils, sealers and other finishes that we use? I don't won't to use anything that will harm the gears....'. Very interesting information on this thread.

I never apply finishes on the lathe. On the rare occasions when I spray lacquer while the piece is still attached to the chuck I completely wrap the chuck with painter's tape. About the only maintenance that I do is using compressed air to blow the dust out.

Odie

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• Aug 3,

• #19

Hello Turners, while on the subject of chucks.....what do you use to clean your chuck(s) with to get all the residue off from all the oils, sealers and other finishes that we use? I don't won't to use anything that will harm the gears....'. Very interesting information on this thread.

As with Bill, I use compressed air after removing the workpiece from the chuck.....every single time. I try to avoid any oil or finishes on the internal workings of the chuck. Oils will attract sanding dust, and eventually will begin to interfere with smooth operation of the chuck. When that happens, you don't have many options, other than to dissemble the chuck and clean out the scroll. '

After you've disassembled your chuck a few times, it's no big deal. ' ......but you will need some snap ring pliers to get-er-done! '

-----odie-----

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• Aug 3,

• #20

I only use dry lubes on my Oneway chucks now. It didn't take long to learn that oil and grease weren't the right answer. I'm not sure about Stronghold chucks, but the ring gear/scroll plate on Talon chucks can't be removed without first removing the spindle adapter. That's a big deal because of the risk of breaking a cap screw. Although the instructions don't mention it, Oneway strongly recommends not reusing the screws because of thread distortion and the high probability of tensile fatigue failure ... you know that you're having a really bad day when that happens.

Normally, complete disassembly isn't necessary ... just remove the upper and base jaws and then put the chuck in a can of Varsol for a few hours.

Odie

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• Aug 3,

• #21

I only use dry lubes on my Oneway chucks now. It didn't take long to learn that oil and grease weren't the right answer. I'm not sure about Stronghold chucks, but the ring gear/scroll plate on Talon chucks can't be removed without first removing the spindle adapter. That's a big deal because of the risk of breaking a cap screw. Although the instructions don't mention it, Oneway strongly recommends not reusing the screws because of thread distortion and the high probability of tensile fatigue failure ... you know that you're having a really bad day when that happens.

Normally, complete disassembly isn't necessary ... just remove the upper and base jaws and then put the chuck in a can of Varsol for a few hours.

What kind of dry lube are you using, Bill? I've been using a dry graphite powder, and that works ok.

Yes, the spindle adapter needs to come off, if the complete dissasembly of the Oneway Stronghold becomes necessary. The past couple of times, I simply removed the slides, and used a Q-tip on the scroll splines while rotating the chuck body. This works pretty well, as long as the scroll isn't gunked up with oil/grease and sawdust. '

-----odie-----

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• Aug 4,

• #22

I'll probably be tarred and feathered, but the lube is CRC Heavy Duty Silicone. It's the only silicone lubricant I know of that doesn't leave a greasy residue ... and I have tried just about all of them. I agree that silicone lubricants can cause fish eye in finishes, but I haven't seen a problem with CRC Heavy Duty Silicone. Besides that, I only apply it to the innards of the chuck where it doesn't contact my hands or the wood.

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• Oct 25,

• #23

I was working on a fairly large Koa calabash today. I started applying some CA to a crack. I was thinking, hmmm this is taking a bit too much. Sure enough, I got CA all over my chuck, I had it in jamb chuck, returning the outside and the tenon, the crack was right above the chuck... I got some WD40 silicone spray, smells nasty...

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• Nov 11,

• #24

Of the limited offering of Hurricane jaw options, I would choose the spigot jaws. The limited jaw options is one reason I would not recommend that chuck. I do a lot of spindle type work, boxes, ornaments and such. I use Nova and Record Power chucks and the jaws are interchangeable. My most used jaws after my normal 50mm jaws, are the RP 35mm jaws. They hold a tenon of around 1 1/8 to 1 7/8". I seldom need to hold a tenon as small as the HTC125 spigot or pin jaws hold in compression. But, it all depends on what you plan to turn.

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• Nov 11,

• #25

Mike - Thanks for bringing this thread back on the topic of jaw selection - not sure how it became a chuck cleaning thread?? '

I did end up buying the spigot jaws when they were on sale.